Milliner in our midst

DeAnna Gibbons/photo C. AndersonIn the modern world where mass retailers sell sweatshop-produced hats by the billions, millinery, the traditional method of using wooden blocks and steam to sculpt handmade hats out of felt and straw is quickly becoming a rarity. But for San Francisco based DeAnna Gibbons, millinery is not a dying art. It is a vehicle for creative expression, and a winning business model.

DeAnna's business, which was built on her background studying art in Florence, Italy, a degree in Metal Arts and Textiles, and seven years working under master milliner Jennifer Mathieu, is one of the few in San Francisco where truly hand made pieces are created. DeAnna’s customers either book a private appointment where shapes, colors, and design elements are worked out one on one with Deanna, or they stop  by her open studio hours to peruse the collection, as I had the chance to do last Friday.

felt crown in progress/photo C. AndersonAfter climbing the long steep staircase to DeAnna's bright and airy studio space, I was immediately struck by HATS everywhere! In a myriad of colors, shapes and details, with buttons, felt feathers, and even a vintage sequin or two, the hats were mesmerizing. I found myself slowly turning around in a half stunned state, taking in the colors, and styles as DeAnna herself emerged from the back of her studio space and welcomed me with a warm friendly smile and a tantalizing offer, “Feel free to try something on.”

As I marveled at the detailing on her pieces, DeAnna explained her process. "For these..." She motioned to a collection destined for Barneys. "I begin with the felt hat body, and stretch them over one of these wooden blocks," She pointed to a wall of handcrafted wooded hat forms. "I love the blocks, I get them from a guy in Italy who makes each of them by hand." She clarified and continued. "I then use steam to mold the felt into the shape I want, and then let it dry, when it's done drying I cut it off the block, add a sweat band to keep the sizing, and add the design details."

I stepped closer to admire the intricate detailing on a just completed piece. "These are hand cut and molded, using remnants." DeAnna explained her conservation-minded design. hand cut and molded felt leaves/photo C. Anderson"They fit together like puzzle pieces, making it possible for me to use them in different colors and patterns on each hat."

In addition to the brightly hued women's hats, DeAnna also creates a variety of menswear styles including traditional with a twist straw fedoras, and felt fishermen’s caps. "I push myself to get creative with both the women’s and men's styles, you have to. When stores like Target are upping their game with better designers, you have to push yourself to create something better, more unique, more daring."felt and straw fedoras line the ceiling of the studio/photo C. Anderson

Pushing herself creatively is nothing new to DeAnna. While developing her primary retail business she also creates hats for local and national theatrical productions. "I like making every day hats, but I also really love the creative challenge and drama in costume design." She smiled and reached for her sketch book containing drawings by costume designer Ulises Alcala for an upcoming production of Tomie DePaola’s Strega Nona put on by Active Arts Theater . "Like, this one." She pointed to a figure wearing a hat covered in baguettes and dinner rolls. "You have to get creative, you have to think about construction, it has to be sturdy so it can travel, and at the same time you have to think about how you are going to make all that bread." She laughed. "Sometimes you have to think about wigs too, how are you going to keep that hat on over a wig?"

Theatrical design, is not only a passion, but it has been an ongoing influence on her fashion line. "I've gotten very inspired by pieces I have created for 1920s, and 30's era productions. I love cloches for women, because the shape is nearly universally flattering and because it holds that air of mystery from the era. My fall collection for the studio (her onsite retail business) has several cloches in various designs and colors.”

Deb Kessler models the Nina Cloche/Photo C.AndersonDeAnna motioned for me  to “stop being shy” and to try on a vibrant purple cloche with button detailing, as a studio customer, Deb Kessler walked in. Immediately DeAnna and Deb began chatting like old friends about hat refurbishing, eBay, and vintage hat companies. "I do custom work, including hand draping.” DeAnna told Deb "I also teach classes in the studio, and do a line that is sold in boutiques." Deb looked around the studio, and her eyes lit up as she spotted a chocolate brown cloche on the back table. "Feel free to try something on." DeAnna encouraged. "Just be careful it isn't something with pins still in it!"

Seconds later Deb and I were both wearing cloches, and admiring our reflections in the mirror. "Wow, these are really great, you just don't see craftsmanship like this anymore." Deb murmured, and I couldn't agree with her more.

DeAnna Gibbon’s seasonal hat collections are available locally at Barneys, Ads Hats, and Fino Fino. Custom made to order pieces can be purchased at DeAnna’s Studio either by appointment or during her open studio hours.

For more information on DeAnna Gibbons Millinery,her collection, and the hat-making classes she offers, visit www.deannagibbons.com.