Moving Target: Jean Paul Gaultier

When Isaac Mizrahi did it, it was unthinkable.  When  Libertine did it we became intrigued. When Thakoon  did it, our minds were blown.  But now that Johnathan Sanders, Alexander McQueen and Ana Sui have done it,  it has become common place; high-end designers doing a low budget collection for mass market monster corporation, Target™ . Originally billed as a 'showcase for emerging designers'  Target's Go International!, under which these designer collections have been produced, has become an expected marketing tool for major fashion houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier whom announced yesterday that he would be the next in line to design.  But what are these 'collections' that promise Fashion for Everyone,  really doing for the industry itself? Sure participating designers gain exposure to markets that might not otherwise be in. But that exposure comes at a price.  

Within hours of the  Gaultier announcement , photos of the not-yet available Rodarte for Target collection were leaked online, showing what appeared to be a boring, cheap looking, re-tred of lace and leopard prints, that were neither original nor cutting edge, something customers not previously familiar with Rodarte might assume is standard for the brand. 

In addition to concerns over poorly executed pieces, there is a valid concern that designers like Gaultier whom have built their business of flamboyant creativity might find themselves boxed in by the family-friendly image of Target stores.  Such was the case earlier this season when internet rumors were buzzing that Target had objected to Gossip Girl as an inspiration for  Anna Sui's line and had demanded that designer refrain from any mention of the show.  A company insider told New York Magazine's style blog The Cut “One of Target’s top executives got nervous about being that closely associated with the show, given the [debauchery] its characters get into..." 

Reduced price = reduced quality and lack of creativity, that is the real danger for all the economic-down-turnistas who are woo'd by Target.   And while we are suggesting that you race down to Neiman Marcus and shell out all of your hard earn money on a single designer piece, we do caution to think carefully before going gaga over Go International.