Weekend getaway, Mendocino ( Part 1)

As temperatures drop and we get closer to the chaos of the holidays, many of us are ready for a weekend away.  For those of you in the Bay Area, Mendocino county may just be far enough to feel like a real escape without giving up all the joys that Bay Area civilization has to offer.  In fact, there are so many different kinds of things to do in Mendocino county that I am breaking this Weekend Getaway segment into two parts—coastal and non coastal areas.  Between water sports, hiking, wine tasting, art classes, local festivals, and farm stands, you can easily find enough legal activities to fill up an autumn weekend (should you desire some of the more famous illegal Mendo farm products, you can most likely find those as well, but I’ll leave that research up to you).

First, the logistics. There are interesting sights and parks along the entire Mendocino coast from Gualala to just north of Westport where Highway 1 turns inland (thus creating the famous “lost coast” of Northern California), but you’ll find a particularly rich area of indoor and outdoor activities in the areas around Mendocino and Fort Bragg. In any case, the first thing you will notice if you venture out here to the coast is that a trip to Mendocino area is a bit like a trip to the past. Not the distant past—we’re not talking Little House on the Prairie or anything—but it’s been my experience that many aspects of Mendo life seem to recall life in the 70s (not that I remember the 70s of course, I’m far too young for that).  Most people don’t use computers or cell phones much here, the local radio station (http://www.kozt.com/) seems to play an awful lot of Joni Mitchell, and there is a certain amount of residual hippie aura in the shops in the area.  It may make you feel a bit like a character in Back to the Future, but it’s got a certain charm of its own if you give in to it and in the small towns here (and they are all very small towns), everyone is very friendly and welcoming. 

Once you arrive here on the coast, you’ve got quite a range of lodging options. Campgrounds abound in the many state parks but there are also lots of B&Bs, motels, and hotels in towns such as Mendocino and Fort Bragg.  Mendocino county is pet-friendly to a fault, so you may want to inquire about pet policies if you wish to bring your furry children with you, or if you are particularly averse to other people’s furry children.  You may need to use the phone to make reservations, since, as I’ve mentioned, it’s not the most techno-savvy area, but most places do at least have telephones.

For most visitors, I think the food of Mendocino county is a very pleasant surprise. For a fairly isolated, rural area, the locals are pretty sophisticated about food, and for a city girl like me it’s been surprising to find a number of people who care so much about food that they grow their own heirloom organic produce, make their own goat cheese, and keep chickens.  But it’s not all  do-it-yourself here, for even though towns like Mendocino and Fort Bragg might be small and isolated, they do boast several fine restaurants that have been frequently profiled in guidebooks and on travel websites.  In addition, there are quite a few hidden and not-so-hidden gems where you can get a really good, affordable meal. The most recent addition is the newly (re)opened Fort Bragg Bakery where locals go for European-style breads, pastries, wood-fired pizzas, and much more.  I’m also a big fan of Frankie’s Pizza and Ice Cream in Mendocino (which has a great room for kids and families upstairs, and live music outside) and Egghead’s Restaurant (great for brunch) and  North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg. It seems like everyone here has their favorite North Coast beer, and my vote goes to Pranqster, a Belgian-style ale that reminds me of the beer I used to drink in Europe.  Many of the local restaurants also offer a good selection of local wines (and beers) and use organic ingredients. For food lovers, there is also the Mendocino Wine and Mushroom Festival coming up from November 6-16

If you need to work off some of the calories you consume here, there are lots of ways to get some exercise and enjoy the sea air.  Although the summer beach season is over, the weather is often still warm enough in the fall for walking on the beach and exploring tide pools, and you still see lots of surfers and kayakers on the water (in wetsuits, of course, the water is cold).  While fishing as an industry in Mendocino county has suffered a great deal in recent years, there are still quite a few people who come to the coast for sport fishing ), and the Abalone diving season ends in November. State Parks such as  Glass Beach, MacKerricher, Van Damme, Russian Gulch, and Jackson offer lots of beautiful trails for hiking, as do the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens There are many bike paths  that run through the woods and along the coast, and horseback riding is an option as well. Finally, for those more drawn to arts and crafts than outdoor sports, the Mendocino Art Center offers an assortment of workshops in ceramics, jewelry, sculpture and more.

Roughly 4 hours from the San Francisco Bay Area, the Mendocino coast is too far for a day trip, but, in my opinion, the natural beauty, the variety of available activities, and the quirkiness of the local culture make it well-worth a weekend away from the city.  You may not choose to move here, as I have, but I have a feeling that if you come for a visit once, you may find yourself returning next time you need a mini-break.  Next time: Wines and Woods, or, The Other Mendocino County.